The Karpaz Peninsula: Wild Donkeys, Golden Beach and the Empty End of Cyprus

Most of North Cyprus is quiet. The Karpaz is empty. The long finger of land pointing north-east towards Turkey has no resorts, barely any villages, and a beach at the end of it that you will very likely have to yourself.

How far it is, honestly

From Kyrenia or Esentepe, allow around two hours each way. The road is good as far as Iskele and then narrows and slows. This is not a morning out; it is a full day, and it is worth clearing the day for it.

The wild donkeys

Several hundred donkeys roam the peninsula, descended from animals left behind in 1974. They are genuinely wild, they are used to cars, and they will put their heads through an open window looking for food. Bring carrots if you like, keep fingers clear, and do not feed them anything salty or processed.

Golden Beach (Altinkum)

The reason to make the drive. A long curve of pale sand backed by dunes, no development, no sunbeds, and usually no more than a handful of people. There are a couple of very basic beach shacks doing food and cold drinks, but assume nothing: take water, take a picnic, take shade.

The sea shelves gently and is usually calm. It is also a turtle nesting beach, so keep off any marked sections and never drive on the sand.

Apostolos Andreas Monastery

At the very tip of the peninsula, restored a few years ago and back in use. Worth the last twenty minutes of driving both for the building and for standing at the end of the island with sea on three sides.

Where to stop on the way

• Iskele and Long Beach — a natural halfway break, and covered in our Iskele guide.
• Kantara Castle — the third and least visited of the Crusader castles, up on the ridge with a view across both coasts.
• Dipkarpaz (Rizokarpaso) — the last real village, and the last reliable place to buy anything.

What to take

• More water than you think, and food — there is very little to buy past Dipkarpaz.
• A full tank. Fuel stations thin out badly on the peninsula.
• Shade: a sun umbrella or a hat, because Golden Beach has none.
• Cash. The beach shacks do not take cards.
• Your phone charged — signal is patchy but usable.

Do you need a 4x4?

No. The main road to the monastery is surfaced the whole way now. Some of the tracks down to individual beaches are rough, and those are the ones to walk rather than drive if your hire car is small — see our car hire guide on what the insurance usually excludes.

When to go

April to June and September to October. In high summer the drive is long and hot with no shade at the far end; in winter the light is beautiful but the days are short for a four-hour round trip.

Staying on the north coast puts the Karpaz within a day's reach while keeping restaurants and beaches close for the rest of the week. See what is available for your dates.